Coupeville, Whidbey’s own jewel
Art and history meet at Ebey’s Landing
by David Edwards

Rustic fishing villages the world over have long served as magazine and postcard fare for exotic, out-of-the-way destinations. Ann of Green Gables introduced readers to the charm of rural Prince Edward Island, while Chile’s seaside hamlets sit tranquilly amid the rugged landscape surrounding them.
For residents of the Northwest, though, all that charm and cachet can be found much closer to home. Coupeville, Washington’s second-oldest city, offers all the allure of the storybook fishing village, and instead of going to Prince Edward Island, would-be visitors need only make tracks to Whidbey Island.
Hugging the scenic inlet of Penn Cove, Coupeville is the center of attention in the area known as Central Whidbey. Coupeville adjoins an isthmus that curves rainbow-like between Whidbey Island’s northern and southern tips. Just east of the isthmus, the land widens to make room for Coupeville, a town of some 1,700 inhabitants. Locals will tell you that, with apologies to the Emerald City to the south, their town is the true jewel of Washington. And the average rainfall in Central Whidbey is less than in Seattle because of the rain-shadow effect.
“The fact is that we get to live and work in view of the Cascade and Olympic mountains with Mt. Baker as a backdrop, with eagles, herons and kingfishers watching over us, and it only takes five minutes to ‘commute’ to work,” said Ian Jefferds, general manager of the Penn Cove Shellfish Farm.
Founded in 1852, Coupeville is especially known for its numerous festivals and historic downtown. Tourism contributes mightily to the local economy, and Central Whidbey’s range of attractions appeals to visitors across the demographic spectrum. Keystone Spit, on the opposite shore as Coupeville, is a mecca for scuba divers. Coupeville itself maintains a thriving arts scene and has developed into something of an artist’s colony. Lighthouse aficionados can visit the beacon at Admiralty Head. In addition, the Coupeville wharf is the oldest still standing in Puget Sound.
But the area’s prime attraction by far is Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve, which encompasses 17,000 acres in and around Coupeville, as well as three state parks. The reserve makes Central Whidbey heaven on earth for history buffs. Nearly 100 structures within the reserve are on the National Register of Historic Places, while approximately 50 structures in Coupeville have achieved that designation. The area boasts the most National Register structures in the state of Washington. Trails and vistas allow visitors to enjoy the full sensory experience via walking, cycling or driving.
The National Park Service manages the reserve, and on the Park Service’s Web site, Ebey’s Landing is described as “the remaining area where a broad spectrum of Northwest history is still clearly visible in the landscape.”
The site goes on to state: “The historical landscape of the reserve appears to today’s visitors much as it did a century ago, when New England sea captains were drawn to Penn Cove. Historic farms are still farmed, forests harvested and century-old buildings used as homes or places of business.
“Unlike many National Park units, the 25-square-mile historical reserve (contains) a mixture of federal, state, county and private property, all managed in a way that preserves its historic essence. This means that changes in the cultural landscape will continue, but in a way that respects the past.”
In short, Ebey’s Landing is the community’s crown jewel. Its variety and majesty inspire endless awe in even the most tenured residents. They are accustomed to it, yes, but they never take it for granted.
“No matter how much the Coupeville area grows and changes, it will always be recognizable because of the protection Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve provides,” said Lindy Kortus, director of the Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce.
“Working farms dot the landscape, and downtown businesses with architecture representative of a hundred years ago will remain protected and valued. A tranquil experience awaits those who visit Central Whidbey.”
The National Park Service isn’t the only government presence in the area, though. The U.S. Navy operates an air station on Whidbey Island, and although the facility isn’t in Central Whidbey, it is easily the largest employer on the island. Approximately 10,000 active duty and civilian personnel work there. Coupeville is also the county seat of Island County, which consists of Whidbey Island and neighboring Camano Island.
Despite the plethora of public-sector employers, Kortus said the area nevertheless keeps “an excellent balance” with the private sector. While most of the public-sector employers are quite large, the great majority of private-sector ones are just the opposite. According to data compiled by the Island County Economic Development Council, only 7 percent of the county’s businesses have more than 20 employees; 70 percent of them employ four people or fewer.
“Home-based (businesses) and cottage industries are an appropriate low-impact fit for the rural community of Central Whidbey,” states the local chamber of commerce’s Web site. A glance at the business listings in Coupeville and nearby Greenbank confirms that. In this sparsely populated section of Whidbey Island, proprietors and annual festivals call attention to small-town commodities ranging from lavender to loganberries. Jefferds, the general manager of the Penn Cove Shellfish Farm, said Central Whidbey retains a distinct character and identity that distinguish it even from the northern and southern parts of the island. Whatever explanations might account for that phenomenon, there’s no denying that the surrounding water forms the essence of Coupeville and Central Whidbey.
Jefferds may have one of the more unusual occupations (see the Penn Cove Shellfish Farm sidebar) in Coupeville, but a large part of the distinctive Central Whidbey character he described comes from the cottage industries so prevalent there. One such local business is A Touch of Dutch, owned by Misty Blanton and her husband Virgil. Located on Front Street in downtown Coupeville, A Touch of Dutch pays homage to the region’s Dutch heritage, an expression that reaches full flower during the famed tulip festival in Skagit County.
The land around La Conner and the Skagit Valley just off Whidbey Island was rumored to be similar to the terrain of the Netherlands. Many Dutch from the East Coast had heard about the fertile land in northwestern Washington, and that was their attraction. The Dutch were preceded to Whidbey Island by the Irish. On March 17 1894, — St. Patrick’s Day, ironically — 18 Dutch colonists, including a cheese-maker, arrived at Oak Harbor, just across Penn Cove from Coupeville.
Through her products, Blanton helps preserve that legacy. Preservation is clearly a big deal in Central Whidbey.
“My business is similar to others in Coupeville because it is a gift shop, not just a Dutch store,” Blanton said. “It has a ‘touch’ of Dutch in it; only 25 percent is Dutch — foods and blue delftware. I carry many other items such as jewelry, handmade imported quilts, specialty foods from the Northwest, Heritage Lace, and a remarkable lotion bar from Northridge Gardens made right here in Kirkland, Washington. Next to my Dutch foods this one item is my ‘bread and butter,’ so to speak.”
“My niche is that I cater to many of the Dutch on the island; I am the only one here who sells their Dutch foods. Not a day goes by that I do not get three to four compliments regarding how nice my shop looks and how unique my products are. (I’d say) 75 percent of my business is from walk-in customers and 25 percent is from the Internet. It is growing every year with more exposure and advertising.
Among the Dutch delicacies Blanton sells are Stroopwafels, Rademaker Hopjes and Drop. Stroopwafels are waffle cookies with a rich, chewy filling. Rademaker Hopjes are hard candies with a coffee flavor. Drop is Dutch licorice and a national obsession in the Netherlands. Blanton said that it’s the one thing Dutch expatriates miss most from the homeland. Drop in no way resembles or tastes like the red or black licorice Americans know. The range of flavors is vast, including honey, menthol and even salt, which tends to make Drop an acquired taste.
A Touch of Dutch will celebrate its 10th anniversary in February. Besides being co-owner, Blanton handles all the day-to-day operations of the store. She speaks with great fondness of her community and hopes others will discover what she and her husband already know.
“The best thing about doing business in Coupeville is that it is a very quaint, historical town with its old-time buildings downtown and Victorian homes,” Blanton said. “(The people) take great pride in maintaining its heritage. Also, the people here are the friendliest — not just the customers, but the fellow merchants as well. We are, for the most part, one big happy family here, and you would be hard pressed to find someone who wouldn’t give the shirt off their back to you.”

Back to Content Page